Just another Treasure..Indian Embroidery Industry
While strolling through the market on a leisurely afternoon, I came across a beautiful silk dress, colourful with fine embroidery. So I quite obviously got attracted immediately and checked the price. As I read on £95, (sale price!!!!). It made me think a little. What makes it worth?? As the salesperson proudly explained, it has such fine needle work. That was right, it was beautifully embroidered.
As I knew, many companies are sourcing the products from India and recognized the familiar patterns. It makes me think about by Grandmother, my retired and even working Aunts, my Doctor mom and even me (just a little of course). Don’t we all know this beautiful work? Haven’t I grown up seeing them engrossed with variety of needles, lots of threads, various frames to be applied on variety of fabrics? If I got embroidered a similar work on even silk and got it tailored as a dress, it wouldn’t cost me more than Rs 2000(£30 approx.)
Indian handicraft industry contributes around 1.5% of total exports which includes various art and craft work. It includes paintings, carvings, wood works, metal works. But here I am talking specifically about embroideries which is currently unexplored and worth around Rs. 800-900 crore (approx £ 80-90million). It has varieties like Zardozi, Phulkari, Bead work, Mirror work, Chikan, Bandhani, Katha and the list goes on. India is among the top suppliers of embroidered fabrics and garments worldwide. USA, UK and Germany are popular major importers of handicraft products from India.
Surat (Gujarat, India) is already one huge supplier among many other places including Mumbai (Maharashtra, India) and Moradabad or Bareilly (UP, India, especially for bead works). But this industry has still immense unexplored potential; it shouldn’t be limited to only the crafts worker working on meagre wages and dominated by cottage industry. It can be developed as a vital input to the India’s exports, subsequently a tool to raise employment and especially to women across the country. I once visited a village in India, where a lady came up to with some table cloths and handkerchiefs with some exquisite (and I really mean it) work on it. As I later knew more, her husband works in Surat as a”karigar” (craftsperson). There are hundreds of such examples, this lady could have been a very capable embroidery artist herself, At-least she can use this better to find a safe, secured and decent employment rather than selling these little things at every doorstep or even maybe having a tea-stall. This is happening because she is unaware of her immense potential and the scope of these table-cloths and handkerchiefs and obviously doesn’t have the access to the right exposure. Hence, all we need is system and awareness which will open new horizons to export industry.
Currently embroideries are mostly popular in apparel industry. But there can be much more taking up the furnishing industry, home decor, lingerie and accessories to name a few.
Is it not magical to see the colourful Kashmiri embroidery (from North India) on a western spring collection, Rajasthan mirror work or North Indian bead works on a trendy waistcoat, the marvellous Chikan work of Lucknow (UP, Northeast state in India)on casual summer-wear or maybe on curtains and the exquisite Phulkari from Pujab(Northwest state in India) on an exclusive cushions range. What about an embroidered lamp shade! These are just few of hundreds of other patterns which can be applied to so many industries.
- Preserving Art: Something important here is preserving the Art. With lack of recognition, many such arts are getting extinct. We can preserve them by focussing on them. It is quite obvious, these things are not so popular to be taken up for studies by current generation, but it is just because they can’t see the scope. Give them the scope and see how a reform comes!
- Export: It will form a major part of country’s export as with ever-increasing demand in fashion industry, there is a world-wide mingling of art and designing. India is already a desirable sourcing destination because of cheap labour and relative low costs. Added to this, India would also offer variety, if this field is properly explored
- Employment : India’s ever increasing populations needs all possible scope for employment generation and this will open up doors for rural ladies to professionals in Supply Chain, Marketing and International Business
- Women empowerment: As it is already discussed, this field has been seen from the point of view of free-hand work which almost every woman in Indian house knows. It will be an added source of earning and thus would lead to financial independence. As elderly have full command on needlework, owing to the vital training they received earlier in their life. Even the older generation can get engagement, income and freedom from unwanted dependency on their children.
This can be attained in a systematic manner. Currently this is an un-organised industry though some established companies are coming up but this works more as cottage industry where the orders are collected through various centres.
What is required? :
- Supply Chain: A supply chain network and developing sourcing centres even in the rural areas, where the ladies would be provided with material and would sit together to work or can carry assigned work home.
- Investment: It is required to establish a system. Business Development, Marketing, Workshops, warehouses and also import of latest machines, if professional work is needed at extensive pace. European countries are popular suppliers especially Germany for high quality machines however China is coming up as a major supplier.
- Professional Training :In general through training programs and for students it can be mingled with Arts subject, it can be developed as one stream
- Transport and communication: It is a major problem especially for rural India and has to be considered for developing this kind of supply system. However, India is coming up with a robust road network which is definitely opening up the market.
With the fast-paced growth of fashion industry, there is a huge demand coming up for these works. Even to the Indians these works are available by branded companies at very high prices, or local shops with not so effective presentation sometimes. Why not, open the doors? This system can extract huge supplies from even the remotest areas of India and with every state; the culture-rich India can provide wide variety of unique artwork.
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This is a nice work.
ReplyDeleteThank you.. :)
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